![]() Next, separate the top and bottom parts of the front leg armour, and cut away any icon details on the lower legs so that all four pieces are smooth. The left overs were then glued to the bottom of the feet. Hack them off and leave the underside of the feet clean and flat.įor the next step take the main body of the Siege Drills and cut away two thirds of it. The actual height of the legs is only about an extra 7mm, not much but enough to give the model a more humanoid shape.įirst up, you need to remove the ball joint from the bottom of the power armour legs. Now we get to the bit that makes all the difference. So far this is only a subtle change from the standard model but it does just tighten the whole design up a little. You can see on the pic above how I’ve tried to position the pads so at the back they almost touch the exhausts and at the front the little curved recess at the corner fits nicely over the torso weapon mounting. Once the greenstuff under the collar has cured firm, attach the shoulder pads, again using small balls of greenstuff so you have something solid to glue the pads to. Put a ball of greenstuff under the helmet so it is slightly higher up but also allows you to angle the head exactly how you want it. Where the back of the collar piece attaches to the torso add a small ball of greenstuff to raise the back end up slightly. Once it’s cured you can pull it apart easily and glue everything in place. Because the greenstuff moulds to the two surfaces you want to join together perfectly it creates a really good bond when superglued together. In some cases you can just glue or use plastic spacers cut from sprue or leftover bitz, but I find a blob of greenstuff to be most versatile. The greenstuff in this conversion is entirely for use as spacers and to join parts together, no sculpting required. I also cut the ends off of the collar part so that when the pads are added I could get them to fit a bit more snuggly with the torso. I chose to trim away the bit at the shoulder joint, it’s not a lot but it does narrow the shoulders a little. The bulk of the torso goes together normally. Some thin plasticard (about 1mm thick will suffice).įor the most part the torso of the model isn’t really in need of a fix. Please note that this is my first stab at Centurions, and there is definite room for improvement, and no doubt I’ll work on that at some point.Ī Space Marine helmet or bare head (Centurion heads are rather ugly). ![]() What I present here is a starting point, but you should feel free to modify the technique and go all out with extra detail if you can. When I decided I wanted to come up with a tutorial fix for the Centurion models I knew I wanted to make it as accessible as possible, with no need for sculpting skills. It doesn’t take a genius to see where the problem comes from. I started by comparing some sample artwork to the actual models and seeing if anything stood out. The concept is good, and all the parts are there with a good degree of detail, but the standard models lack a certain something that makes them look… well to be honest I can’t find a suitably funny and accurate analogy… but lets face it they look awful.Īs anyone who has seen my previous conversion work will know I always like to start with a suitable piece of artwork to draw inspiration from, and this project is no different. Ever since the release of the Space Marine Centurion models I’ve wanted to have a go at fixing what I can’t help but feel is a flawed model.
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