![]() We cut the R-TECH styrofoam sheets to size by scoring them with a utility knife, then snapping along the score line. Once the framework was in place, we installed the insulation. We used 40lb bags of water softener salt as weights to hold everything in place while the glue dried. These braces are just long pieces of aluminum we bought at Lowes and drilled holes in. We replaced the steel brace (it was old and rusted) with aluminum and added braces along the other boards as well. This helps make sure the frame won’t twist or sag. We wanted a little more structure, so we added a few more. Originally, there had been only one steel brace on the board next to the ceiling vent. I’ll say it again… That stuff is amazing. We used the Gorilla Glue to adhere the frame to the aluminum skin, and it worked really well. We pretty much followed the original framework, but we did end up adding an extra support beam for structure. We ditched the construction adhesive early on and used regular Gorilla Glue for the rest of the rebuild.Īfter we attached the front and back boards, we started building the ceiling framework out of the 1 x 2 pine boards. This glue sticks to anything, and it foams and expands quite a bit, so it fills in all the little gaps. □ As we went along, though, we noticed that we much preferred regular old Gorilla Glue for adhering all the materials. While the construction adhesive was drying, we used a whole lotta clamps. When we began the process, we were using Gorilla Construction Adhesive and a notched trowel to adhere the front and back boards to the aluminum skin. We used the original boards as templates and cut new boards to replace them. We replaced the front, back, and side boards with the 3/4″ plywood. ![]() We also had a couple of tears in the aluminum from the previous owner, so we gently flattened them with a rubber mallet and applied Eternabond to the inside of those as well. We applied Eternabond tape to the inside of the seam to help ensure a good seal. Then it was time to start putting the roof all back together. We could only source 3/4″ easily, so we just made some minor adjustments to our measurements and used what we could find locally. You want your foam to be the same thickness as your frame, so you if are using 1″ thick lumber, you can use 1″ foam. For the interior of the ceiling, we used 1 x 2 pine lumber (which is actually only 3/4″ thick), 3/4″ plywood, luan paneling, and 3/4″ R-TECH styrofoam insulation. Everywhere else carried 1″ thick foam sheets. It was the only place we could find the foam insulation in 3/4″ thickness. We purchased all the materials for the interior rebuild at our local Lowe’s. We swept our floor really well before we laid down the skin, so we wouldn’t damage the outside. Like we mentioned in the previous post, the aluminum is really fragile, so make sure you are really careful with this step. If you are in the market for a good respirator, we love this one. Make sure you wear a respirator while cleaning the aluminum. ![]() A couple of things to keep in mind for this step. Justin cleaned the inside really well with acetone to remove any of the remaining adhesive. We kept the pebbled aluminum exterior, as it was pretty hard (and expensive) to find a replacement. Today we are going to show you how we rebuilt the interior and skinned out the ceiling. When we last checked in with y’all, we showed you how we took the roof apart to start the reconstruction. ![]() The camper was in pretty bad shape, and we knew it would need a roof rebuild. □Ī few months ago, we rescued a neglected Rockwood pop up camper from a family friend’s backyard. This is the first time we’ve taken on a roof rebuild like this. We love sharing the process of our remodel with you all, but please don’t think we’re perfect. There may be different (and better) ways to rebuild a damaged roof, and our experiences should not be construed as professional advice. We are just outlining the steps we took to rebuild our Rockwood pop up camper roof.
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